Getting Lost Under the Porticoes: A Slow Travel Guide to Bologna
At first glance, Bologna has a quieter, simpler atmosphere compared to other Italian cities, but as you get into it, you get hooked. The thing that impressed me the most was the feeling of getting lost under the porticos that get longer as you walk. Time moves a little slower in this city; the wines are deeper, the food is more real and the streets are less flashy but warmer.
If you want to go off the beaten track in Italy but still experience great flavors, beautiful walks, and pleasant evenings, this article is for you. Where to walk, what to eat, where to sip a glass, and where to stay in Bologna - it's all in this guide.
I will share my impressions of a full but simple 2-day city break in Bologna.
Where to Walk - A Quiet Time Travel through the Streets of Bologna
Exploring Bologna on foot is like stepping through different layers of time, not a city.
My first stop was of course Piazza Maggiore, which stole everyone's heart. It is not only the center of the city but also the place where its soul lives. In the morning it is lively, in the evening it is like a theater stage... Since I was there in the middle of summer, a giant screen was set up in the square and I stumbled upon an open-air film festival. I hadn't planned to go, but I found myself sitting on the stone floor among the historical buildings, watching an Italian movie under the stars. I remember the peace of that moment more than the movie. Sometimes a city catches you in a way you didn't plan... That's what Bologna did for me.
The surroundings of the square offer a new story at every step. Palazzo d'Accursio stands out with its red bricks and clock tower; the Sala Borsa, right next to it, looks like a classical building from the outside, but another world opens up when you step inside. Roman archaeological remains can be seen under the glass-floored area. This is a place where a modern library and the ancient past live on top of each other.
One of the things that impressed me the most was the arch under the Palazzo del Podestà. When two people stand on opposite corners of the arch, even if you speak in a whisper, the other person can hear everything you say. It may be a physically explainable acoustic phenomenon, but for me, it was a little magic. We tried it, amazed, and then we laughed quietly.
Of course, as in every city, there were small details that needed attention. Basilica di San Petronio is one of the biggest churches in Italy, but unfortunately, my girlfriend was not allowed in because of the clothes she was wearing. I'm sure this happens to a lot of people; you have to wear something that covers your shoulders and knees before entering. This was added to my city notes as an “important but overlooked detail”.
As you continue walking, the city opens its secrets to you. Especially walking along Via dell'Indipendenza and heading towards Via Rizzoli and Via Zamboni shows both the classic and young sides of Bologna. Porticos (arched passageways) are literally the protagonists here. The most special thing about Bologna is this portico system: More than 40 kilometers long, it wraps around the city like a web. They provide shade when the sun is scorching, and you can walk in the rain without getting wet. Even the sounds of the cobblestones add a rhythm to the walk.
Another remarkable element is the city's two famous towers: Torre degli Asinelli and Torre Garisenda. In Bologna, noble families used to build these towers to show themselves and provide defense. It was a kind of status symbol. Most of them have fallen over time, but these two are still standing. Garisenda is slightly tilted, and you can see it with your eyes. Some even compare it to the Leaning Tower of Pisa, but here it's a bit different - the towers in Bologna look more “raw and real”. If you want to climb, you can go up Torre degli Asinelli, but for me, these towers are just structures to look at and dream about.
Finally, there is “La Finestrella”, the Little Venetian Window. This little window on the Canale delle Moline overlooks one of Bologna's rare water canals. Although it is often shared on social media, it is not a big deal. But still, walking under the portico and looking through a narrow wall is one of the city's surprises. It is called “Bologna's Little Venice”. It is worth a visit, but it is better not to have high expectations.
🍽️ Where (and What) to Eat in Bologna
“Bologna cuisine didn't fill me up, it silenced me.”
I've been to Bologna several times before, but each time I've experienced something in common: more and more delicious food. The city opened itself up a little more each time I visited, but never in a hurry.
Food has a rhythm here. Slow, but steady. A plate of pasta; some silence, a glass of wine; then conversation again... In this city, food is a flow, not an event.
Each time we visited, my girlfriend and I looked for the same restaurant: Osteria dell'Orsa. This place is now like our “food home” in Bologna. Although it is touristy, it still retains its authentic air. The tables are close to each other, but not uncomfortable, the hum inside comes from the naturalness of the conversation and the sincerity of the voices. The walls are old, the stone floor worn, but that's exactly why it's real.
The first time we sat down, we ordered tagliatelle al ragù - a classic dish made with bolognese sauce, but here the minced meat, tomatoes, and spices were so balanced that we were drawn in with every bite. Another time we tried lasagna; it was lasagna verdi with green leaves - from the outside, it looked dense, but it was so balanced that we felt peaceful after eating it, not heavy. The Greek salad we ordered with it was surprisingly successful; it was a large portion and full of fresh vegetables.
Thinking about all these dishes together, I saw Osteria dell'Orsa as not just a restaurant, but a living part of Bologna's flavor memory.
The house wines brought to the table also deserve a special note. The white was light but aromatic, the red deep and round. The glasses are not elegant, they are simple, but when you combine them with the wine, you get more and more involved with the place with every sip.
Don't forget to sprinkle plenty of parmesan on the plates; with the parmesan served on the table, you complete the flavor yourself according to your taste. This freedom, this “decide for yourself” attitude is the soul of Bologna cuisine.
For dessert, we ordered tiramisu one day, but the version at Osteria dell'Orsa did not satisfy us. It wasn't bad, but it wasn't memorable either.
If you are looking for a good tiramisu, I would definitely recommend Il Caffè della Corte Bistrot. The tiramisu we had at this small place was one of the best my girlfriend has ever tried.
The flavor was both intense and balanced; the lightness of the raw egg cream, the coffee-infused cake and the balance of cocoa was very well balanced. I will never forget the moments when we looked at each other and said “this is so good”.
During all this beauty, we had one small disappointment: the ravioli we ordered at another place unfortunately came in a very small portion. The flavor was good, but we were not full. There are times like this; when Bologna embraces you, but sometimes it can be a bit coy.
The breakfasts in Bologna were just as memorable as the dinners. In the arcade right across from the train and bus station, there is a small area where you can order from the common menu of several different buffets. Although it may seem confusing at first, the system is quite practical: you tell them what you want and they go and get it from whichever buffet. We tried a sandwich with pork products (mortadella) specific to the Bologna region; it also had dried tomatoes and artichokes in it. It was so delicious, and the size of the sandwich was more than we expected. We added a croissant and a small pancake to the side and had a perfect breakfast.
This breakfast place is especially suitable for day trips. If you are planning to take a day trip from Bologna to places like Modena, Verona, or Rimini, you can have a filling breakfast and buy snacks on the train or bus from this arcade.
Our other breakfast alternative was the local markets, or mercatos, in the city. We were especially happy with the small square pizzas sold in the Mercato delle Erbe. They were both hot and freshly prepared. The price was also more reasonable than at other restaurants. You encounter more locals than tourists here, and this makes the atmosphere as good as the taste.
In conclusion, eating in Bologna is not a part of a travel plan, it is the journey itself.
Not just hunger, but also fatigue, curiosity, love, conversation, and silence - this city answers all of them with a plate.
And it does this with a different taste every time.
🍷Sip & Sit: Wine & Café Corners in Bologna
“A day that starts with coffee, and is heavy with beer and wine; the city of quiet streets and noiseless pleasure.”
Some cities start with morning coffee, while others are remembered with evening wine. Bologna, on the other hand, allows you to experience both, digesting them without rushing, without tiring you.
Drinking coffee before you enter the city in the morning is not a habit for me, it is a necessity. Il Caffè della Corte Bistrot has become our favorite in this city, both for its tiramisu and coffee. Getting a coffee and a croissant here in the morning is like getting ready for the rest of the day amidst the dim lighting and stone walls of the interior.
The coffees are classic but just right: short, strong, nothing more, nothing less. The prices are also quite reasonable.
The price/performance ratio is good in most cafes in the city. A cup of espresso with a dessert on the side — fast Italian style, but you witness the time passing a little slowly.
As I walked through Bologna, every shop window I came across made me guess what was inside. There was one in particular… Bialetti. The sparkle of the moka pots in the shop window was dazzling, and when combined with the smell of coffee coming from inside, I barely had to resist going in. “I’ll get to you later,” I said, but I knew: shop windows like this leave more than just the city in mind.
When you connect with the city, even that little coffee machine becomes a kind of souvenir.
We went for a short walk before returning to the hotel in the evening. As we headed towards the center, we passed through Parco della Montagnola. We had passed by the park before, but at that hour it had taken on a completely different atmosphere. Young people were sitting on the grass, some were playing music, and others were sipping their beers and wines from small kiosks.
At that moment, we felt that Bologna was not only historical, but also a living city. The streets were closed to traffic, pedestrians only. Even that was special enough.
We had our drinks a little later at the hotel. There was a small bar where we had been staying, and the Italian beer Messina, I tried there was simple but very tasty.
Its light malt taste, coolness, and way of pleasuring without any pretensions suited the general spirit of Bologna very well. It is not as intense as wine, and not as short as coffee. It is like a breath of fresh air.
Then came the night walks… As you walk slowly through the narrow streets, the shop windows are slightly blurred by the wine, the light shadows under the portico, and the slight coolness…
Bologna offers an evening drink not only as a pleasure but also as a “slowing down suggestion”. And when you accept that suggestion, the city starts speaking to you in a different tone.
As for the wines… This city has a rich and characterful wine culture as it is the heart of the Emilia-Romagna region.
Lambrusco is the star of this region: slightly sparkling, usually red or pink, and drunk cold. It refreshes you, especially on summer evenings, but also keeps you in the game with its aroma.
One evening, I sat in the corner of a small bar and watched the surroundings while drinking Lambrusco. I started to notice everything from the shoes of the people passing by on the street to the expressions on their faces. This wine opens not only your palate but also your eyes.
Another favorite of mine was Pignoletto. It is generally used in white wines. It has a fresh, fruity, and slightly floral aroma. It is especially preferred during aperitivo hours. When you add a small cheese plate or a few olives, you start to digest the city slowly.
Small non-touristy bars, tiny wine stops hidden in narrow streets... They are all points of discovery.
I don't remember the names of some of them, but I can't forget the feelings they gave me.
Let me also make a short note: The homemade wines we drank at Osteria dell'Orsa were again classic but enjoyable. The red was a bit more intense, while the white was a perfect summer companion. There's no need to explain it in detail, but I can say that we connected with Bologna in one sip there.
🛏️ Where We Stayed (or Would Stay) in Bologna
“Sometimes you don’t stay in a city, a place feels like home to you.”
We haven’t changed our choice every time we go to Bologna. It has become a tradition for us: Combo Hostel.
Its name is simple, but the experience it provided exceeded our expectations every time.
First of all, the rooms were very clean. In such places, you are usually ready to make some compromises regarding cleanliness, but we didn’t experience such a thing here. Everything was in orde,r and no detail bothered us during our stay.
The staff was also very warm and attentive. We got answers to all our questions, and every request was heard. I can say this sincerely because we stayed in the same hostel at different times, and our experience was always consistent.
Combo Hostel offers many options to suit different preferences. There are classic dormitories as well as private rooms, which we always prefer. And these rooms were both affordable in terms of price and satisfying in terms of comfort. It is not easy to stay at this level in Bologna and not strain your budget.
But the most special part of this hostel for us: is its garden.
It is spacious, green, but most importantly, the atmosphere... It is an area where people from all countries come together, sip their drinks and chat, but do it in silence and respect.
If you want, you can get a liter of beer or a classic Aperol spritz from the hostel bar, or you can bring your own drink from outside and take your place in that environment like everyone else.
We spent many evenings here. We met new people, exchanged experiences, and sometimes just listened. This garden is not only social; it is a safe, relaxing and homely area.
There is also a breakfast option in the morning. It seemed a little plain to us, but from what I saw, it was enough for many people. A classic European hostel breakfast is offered, especially with croissants, jam, fruit, and hot drinks.
The location of the hostel is also quite strategic. The train station can be reached on foot in 8-10 minutes. This is a great advantage especially for those who are planning a day trip to cities such as Modena, Verona and Rimini.
In addition, the Marconi Express line, which provides airport transfers but is a bit expensive, can also be reached on foot. Walking to the center takes a bit longer — about 20 minutes, but the roads are flat, with porticos, and mostly safe.
However, one observation caught my attention on our last visit: there was a noticeable crowd of refugees in the square just across from the train station. While this is not a direct threat, it is worth being a little cautious, especially late at night. Bologna is generally a safe city, but the areas around major stations always need a little extra caution.
🎒 If You’re Like Me…
If you like to walk when the streets are empty, not during the busy hours of the day…
If you like to eat not only to be full but also to taste slowly, to understand each other in silence…
If you try to understand a city rather than memorize it; and if you sometimes want to listen to your inner voice while trying to understand it — Bologna will embrace you.
Walking through the quiet streets of Bologna at night is like celebrating solitude while escaping the crowds.
If you drink your coffee not quickly, but sitting down, sip by sip…
If you see wine as a state of mind, not just a drink…
Bologna will whisper to you in its own language.
